Peel the silver skin off the skirt and hanger steaks and dice them. (You cannot purchase skirts and hangers from anything but beef. However, you will find them in the diaphragm of your home-killed pig, separating the gastrointestinal tract from the chest cavity.)

Chop all of the offal into pieces smaller than a walnut. Keep the various organs separate so that you can fry them in orderly batches.

Using your largest frying pan, heat some butter or lard until it starts to smoke (add more fat as needed during frying). Fry each piece of offal in order, starting with the muscle tissue and ending with the soft-tissue organs. Start with the skirts and hangers, then the heart, spleen, kidneys, testicles, and finally the liver. Sprinkle the salt on pieces as they fry. Once each batch is nicely browned in the hot fat, push it to the cooler edges of the pan, or lift it to another pan or plate while you brown the next batch. A dark, crispy surface will suffice. Each piece will finish cooking in the sauce.

Put all of the offal in one pan on medium-high heat. Pour in the brandy and scrape the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon, dislodging the tasty bits that are stuck. Be ready for the ignition of the alcohol. After a good scrape, immediately stir-in the mustard and jam before the brandy completely evaporates. Once they are incorporated, pour in the cream and increase the heat to high.

Stir slowly as the cream reduces. When you get big shiny bubbles, taste the sauce and adjust as needed. If it is too sweet, add more mustard.

Serve with a freshly baked sourdough loaf and butter. A fresh side salad with a vinaigrette is a good accompaniment that will help you eat more offal to the unreproved delight of the whole person, body and soul.